the lesser-known way to Machu Picchu

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With Peru’s more famous Inca Trail becoming increasingly overrun, the lesser-known Salkantay Trek is quickly gaining a reputation as both a less-crowded and more strenuous alternative.

• By Guy Wilkinson

Where the Salkantay Trek begins

With Peru’s famous Inca Trail becoming increasingly overrun – forcing 

travellers to battle stiff competition for peak season permits – the lesser-known 

Salkantay Trek is quickly gaining a reputation as both a less-crowded and more 

strenuous alternative.

A good level of fitness is required due to the high altitude. But the extra effort pays off. 

The trail offers mind-blowing visuals and takes in a variety of ecosystems – from cloud

 forests and alpine peaks to glacial lakes and tropical jungles. Following in the footsteps 

of the highly trained Inca messengers, the four- to five-day odyssey culminates at the 

ancient site of Machu Picchu. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

A steady climb up

Departing Cusco – which is among the world’s highest towns at nearly 3,500m – we began

 with a steady climb from the tiny village of Marcocasa up through the Rio Blanco Valley.

 Following a wide gravel track, we passed occasional villagers on horseback, pausing 

periodically to marvel at cliff faces plunging steeply into the lush green valley below. 

Ascending higher to the panoramic view point at Challacancha, we caught our first glimpse 

of the snow-capped Humantay and Salkantay mountain ranges, their serrated peaks 

stabbing at the underbelly of the sky like giant daggers.

For now, no permits are required to tackle the Salkantay Trek, but this could easily change

 in subsequent years. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

Setting up camp for the night

After a full day’s hike (around 15km), the scenery became increasingly mountainous;

 the Salkantay Ranges appeared more intimidating as the last rays of sun disappeared

 behind their face. At the Soraypamapa campsite, our tents had already been set up by 

the dedicated team at Bioandean Expeditions, but the temperature had plummeted from

 bracing to bone chillingly cold – enough to warrant an outer shelter wrapped around our

 individual tents. As dusk set in, I wandered around camp to take photos and came across 

a trio of horses tied to a wooden fence, the snow-capped mountains providing a striking 

backdrop. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

The coldest night

As the cooks prepared dinner inside the mess tent, I happened upon a young boy, who 

laughed and ran away when I asked his name in faltering Spanish. With the wind picking 

up and darkness setting in, we huddled over bowls of hot soup and flasks of tea before

stumbling back to our sleeping tents. Even wrapped in a tent within a tent, huddled deep

 in my sleeping bag, it was the coldest night of my life. Come 5:30 am, I was glad that the 

offer of coca tea marked the beginning of a new day’s trek. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

Trekking to Mt Salkantay’s highest pass

Ascending to the highest pass of our trek was tough going. The air became thinner and 

the effects of altitude made climbing much harder. A jagged stone trail cut a path between

 the Tucarhuay Mountain to our left and the Salkantay to our right. Though well worn,

 the undulating trail was rugged under foot, with loose stones and gravel requiring focussed

 trekking as we headed deeper into the mountains. Periodically, we would pass local

 horsemen leading small herds over the ranges, appearing suddenly out of the mist only 

to vanish again as quickly as they’d materialised. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

Atop the ‘Savage Mountain’

After several hours traversing the northeast ridge, we finally reached the pass. At 4,650m,

 we might have only been at half the height of Everest’s summit, but it was still a decent 

effort. Unfortunately, low level cloud cover resulted in a total white out, blocking what would 

ordinarily have been a spectacular view.

The name “Salkantay” is a Quechua word, meaning “Savage Mountain”. With conditions 

changing so rapidly, it’s easy to see how this peak – the highest in the Willkapampa 

mountain range – earned its moniker. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

Many ecosystems in five days

Beginning our descent, we trekked over sweeping plains towards a cloud forest and a 

scenic viewpoint at Huayracpunka before heading on towards the jungle. The second day

 was the longest by a few hours but also the most impressive thanks to the striking alpine 

peaks we had all to ourselves. It was dark by the time we reach our next camping area at

 Chaullay. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

A necessary break

Over the next couple of days, we hiked through the upper jungle and crossed the 

Lluskamayo River, taking time to bathe in natural hot springs near our campsite at the

 small town of Santa Teresa. Following a railway line by foot, we finally reached the town

 of Aguas Calientes (pictured), where we kicked back and rested up for the evening. 

A hot shower and a cold beer never felt so good. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

A quiet arrival at Machu Picchu

On day five, we were up at dawn to catch the first bus to Machu Picchu, a 25-minute 

transfer from town. It was still dark when we entered the site; we were among the first in 

and only a small group of lamas were there to greet us. The rising sun soon revealed

 one of the world’s most revered ancient sites, rising 2,340m above sea level and enclosed

 by the mountainous jungle of the upper Amazon Basin. Initially built in the 15th Century by 

the Inca Empire, the site was abandoned in the 16th Century and was only rediscovered

 in 1911 when a Peruvian guide led Yale professor Hiram Bingham to the “lost city”.

 It was a fitting finale to one of the world’s most spectacular treks. (Credit: Guy Wilkinson)

文章取自 BBC Travel